I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s in-house technical advisor and your field-tested well pump guy. When a pump loses prime, water stops and stress spikes. Showers freeze mid-rinse, dishwashers stall, livestock go thirsty, and pressure gauges stare at zero like a bad joke. A properly set up Myers system shouldn’t lose prime often—but if it does, the safest, fastest way back to full pressure is a clean, disciplined priming procedure using proven gear and pro tips that prevent airlocks, overheating, and damage.
Two Saturdays ago, I got a call from the Navedo family—Miguel (39) and Lidia (37)—outside Nampa, Idaho. Miguel runs a small orchard supply route and Lidia is a school nurse. Their 165-foot private well runs a 1 HP system delivering 10-12 GPM to a 44-gallon pressure tank. A windy cold snap iced a poorly sealed well cap and the system sucked air. Their older Goulds jet assembly wouldn’t hold prime, then the motor overheated. Water gone. Two kids—Adriana (9) and Tomas (6)—plus a new flock of backyard layers made it urgent.
We sized and shipped a PSAM Myers Predator Plus package the same day: a Myers jet pack for shallow backup priming and a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP submersible for the long haul they’d planned for spring. This guide mirrors what I taught the Navedos: how to prime a Myers jet pump safely, how to purge air on a Myers submersible system, how to protect the motor, how to verify prime holds, and how to avoid the mistakes that cost homeowners thousands.
What’s inside:
- Step-by-step priming for jet pumps (shallow and convertible). Safe vent and purge for submersible systems after air intrusion. Pressure tank and switch setup that locks in prime longer. Check valves, drop pipe, and fittings that stop recurring air leaks. When to use 2-wire vs 3-wire and the real impact on priming and troubleshooting. Motor protection during priming with Pentek XE smarts you can trust. Why Myers’ stainless and self-lubricating impellers shrug off grit during priming cycles. High-performance comparisons so you understand why your PSAM Myers package is worth every penny long term.
Let’s get your psam myers pump running safely and keep it that way.
#1. Priming Basics for Myers Jet Systems – 1-1/4" NPT Suction, Pressure Switch, and Check Valve Alignment
Getting a Myers jet pump back online comes down to purging air and sealing the suction line. Air is compressible; water is not. If your suction side isn’t airtight, you’ll chase prime all day.
Technically, the priming routine establishes a solid water column from the 1-1/4" NPT suction port through the foot/check valve to the water source, then through the volute and impeller cavity. A filled volute prevents cavitation and dry-running. On a convertible jet pump, the nozzle/venturi pack must be filled completely. A properly set pressure switch (typically 30/50 or 40/60) team-lifts with the tank to stabilize post-prime operation. A good upstream check valve or foot valve holds the column when the pump stops. Myers’ port plugs and priming plug threads are machined tight—seal with two wraps of PTFE tape plus a light pipe dope for an airtight result.
For context: Miguel tried to prime his old jet twice. Air kept returning. The real fix was a new check valve at the well seal and properly sealed suction threads; once installed, the Myers jet pump primed in one cycle.
Pro Setup: Fill, Vent, and Seal
- Remove the top priming plug. Fill the housing with clean water until it spills out—about two to three full pitchers. Crack a high faucet indoors to vent trapped air. Reinstall the priming plug snugly. Don’t overtighten aluminum plugs in cast housings. Seal threads deliberately, not excessively.
Pressure Switch Stability
- Verify 30/50 or 40/60 settings match your tank precharge. Precharge should be 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 28 PSI for a 30/50). Tight electrical spade connections keep arcing down; arcing during priming cycles is a silent killer.
Check Valve Positioning
- Place the check valve near the water source (foot valve at the bottom or inline near the well). Use true schedule-rated fittings. Thin-wall bits invite micro air leaks that kill prime.
Key takeaway: Airtight suction and a properly filled volute make a Myers jet pump prime fast and hold it.
#2. Myers Submersible Well Pump Air Purge – Predator Plus Series, Pentek XE Motor, and Pressure Tank Balance
A Myers submersible well pump doesn’t require priming like a jet. It’s submerged and self-priming by design. After a repair or an air intrusion event, though, you’ll need to purge air and reset your pressure tank and pressure switch so the system runs smoothly.
Under the hood, a Myers submersible with a Pentek XE motor and multi-stage impellers pushes water up the drop pipe, through an internal check valve, and into the pressure tank. After air intrusion, pockets can accumulate at high points and in the tank’s water side. Running a purge through a hose bib at the tank tee can clear the line safely. Watch current draw on startup if you’ve got a clamp meter—air-bound systems can free-spin and then load abruptly. The Predator Plus Series is built for smooth ramp and sustained performance, resisting overheating with thermal overload protection and lightning safeguards.
When I walked Lidia through her purge, we opened the laundry sink valve for two minutes to spit the air out gently. Pressure normalized, and that 1 HP Predator Plus submersible settled into a quiet hum under 8 amps at 230V.
Air Purge Sequence
- Open a hose bib or utility sink at the tank tee. Start the pump; allow a mixture of air and water to vent until flow is steady. Close the bib, confirm pressure rises to cut-out, and observe recovery time.
Tank and Switch Coordination
- Confirm tank precharge at 2 PSI below switch cut-in. Replace a waterlogged tank; priming and purging won’t fix a failed bladder.
Safety Considerations
- Never dry-run. Submersibles depend on water for cooling. If unsure, cycle in short intervals to avoid heating if the well’s water level is questionable.
Key takeaway: Submersibles don’t need traditional priming—but a smart purge and tank coordination restore smooth, air-free delivery.
#3. Stainless Confidence – 300 Series Stainless Steel, Threaded Assembly, and Corrosion-Resistant Reliability
Priming and post-priming performance live or die on materials. 300 series stainless steel on Myers Predator Plus means the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, and suction screen fight corrosion aggressively—especially critical in water with iron, sulfides, or acidic pH.
This matters during priming cycles and air purges because mixed-phase flow (air + water) can cause micro-vibration and minor axial load swings. Inferior materials amplify wear. A Myers threaded assembly lets a qualified contractor service stages or swap a wear ring on-site without a full replacement. That’s field-serviceable design that respects your time and wallet. Corrosion creep ruins pump efficiency; stainless keeps stage tolerances true so you stay closer to the best efficiency point (BEP)—where the pump is quiet, efficient, and long-lived.
For Miguel’s well, trace iron and seasonal turbidity demanded the stainless route. With stainless throughout and an upgraded suction screen, he won’t see pitting issues that caused the previous pump’s steady decline.
Corrosion Resistance in Real Water
- Iron and manganese oxidize on surfaces, causing drag and heat. Stainless resists scale adhesion better than cast iron. Acidic water (low pH) eats cast components; stainless holds its line.
Service in Place
- Threaded column lets techs pull, inspect, and reassemble faster. Replace stages or wear rings at the kitchen table, not a machine shop.
Efficiency Retention
- Tight tolerances maintain head and GPM longer. Less internal recirculation equals less wasted energy.
Key takeaway: Stainless construction preserves performance and makes priming-and-beyond maintenance practical and affordable.
#4. Impeller Durability During Priming – Teflon-Impregnated Staging and Self-Lubricating Composite Advantage
Priming a jet or purging a submersible can entrain fine grit. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers in Myers Predator Plus pumps shrug off those moments. Grit scours conventional impellers and bushings, loosening clearances and slashing efficiency; Myers engineered composites reduce friction and abrasion.
During priming, a dry cavity goes wet. That transition is where lesser pumps suffer. The Myers composite blend provides boundary lubrication right at startup, buying critical seconds if water isn’t fully established. The result? Fewer seized bearings, fewer scarred impeller vanes, and a pump that hits its curve more years in a row. Efficient staging matters because it keeps amperage in check. Lower amps during normal run equal less motor heat and longer life.
When we brought the Navedo system online, I had Miguel watch his ammeter. The amperage rose smoothly, then stabilized—textbook behavior of a healthy multi-stage running clean and cool.
Startup Protection in the Real World
- Self-lubricating stages cushion dry-to-wet transitions. Less heat at startup reduces thermal cycling stress.
Grit and Sand Management
- Teflon impregnation lowers friction coefficient. Staging resists edge wear that opens internal leakage paths.
Efficiency Over Time
- Impellers keep their geometry under minor abrasion. Stable GPM and head mean predictable shower pressure and irrigation.
Key takeaway: Myers’ stage materials are a quiet insurance policy during priming, purging, and every daily start.
#5. Safety First During Priming – Thermal Overload Protection, Lightning Protection, and Proper Amperage Draw
Priming mistakes often become motor mistakes. Fortunately, Myers motors, particularly with the Pentek XE motor, include thermal overload protection and lightning protection to guard against abuse during setup and recovery.
From a technical standpoint, an unloaded jet pump can spin high and draw lower current initially, then suddenly load when water establishes. A submersible may do the inverse if air pockets cause cavitation. Watching amperage as you prime (clamp meter on one leg of 230V) tells you the story in real time. A consistent 6–10 amps on a 1 HP motor is typical dependent on head. Spikes or persistent high draw means restriction or mis-primed conditions. Myers motors shed heat efficiently and trip cleanly when overheated; that’s the difference between a protective nuisance trip and a burned winding.
I had Lidia power-cycle her breaker after we verified solid flow and normal current. One trip as a safeguard is fine—multiple trips mean stop and reassess.
Meter What Matters
- Clamp meter plus a watch. Stable current after 30–60 seconds is the green light. Rising current without pressure rise? Stop—likely airlock or blockage.
Breaker and Conductor Health
- Undersized wire overheats during priming cycles. Use proper gauge per distance and HP. Clean lugs and tight terminals prevent voltage drop.
Smart Restarts
- Let a tripped motor cool fully. Correct the cause before retrying. Protection is not a license to brute-force.
Key takeaway: Protect the motor while you prime, and it’ll protect your water supply for years.
#6. Pressure Tank and Switch Harmony – Precharge Tuning, Cut-In/Cut-Out, and Rapid Cycling Prevention
Nothing kills prime like a pressure tank that’s out of harmony with the pressure switch. Precharge must sit 2 PSI below cut-in; otherwise, short cycles hammer the system and invite air intake through marginal fittings.
Technically, a bladder tank separates air from water to stabilize pressure. Incorrect precharge or a ruptured bladder creates waterlogging, so the pump sees rapid on-off sequences. During priming or purge, this makes flow erratic, often mistaken for “bad pump.” Set your switch properly—30/50 or 40/60—and match tank precharge precisely. Verify with an accurate gauge when the system is depressurized. Myers tanks and switches are calibrated to play well together.
The Navedos had a tank precharged at 38 PSI with a 30/50 switch—a seven-PSI mismatch. No wonder the jet never stabilized. We dropped it to 28 PSI and the system settled into clean, steady cycles.
Precharge Procedure
- Power off pump. Drain to zero PSI. Check tank with a tire gauge at the Schrader valve; set 2 PSI below cut-in. Refill and test for smooth rise to cut-out.
Switch Verification
- Inspect contacts for pitting. Replace if burnt. Confirm line and load wiring is tight and correct.
Cycle Stability
- Observe a full drawdown. Smooth pressure drop and rise mean harmony. Rapid chatter means fix precharge, check valves, or leaks.
Key takeaway: Tank and switch tuned together hold prime and protect motors from abuse.
#7. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire for Priming Simplicity – Control Box Needs, Diagnostics, and Cost Clarity
Priming has a wiring side. A 2-wire well pump keeps it simple—no external control box, fewer connections, fewer points of failure. A 3-wire well pump uses a control box above ground, great for certain diagnostic and start torque needs, but adds complexity.
For most residential systems 60–200 feet with standard TDH, a modern 2-wire Myers submersible is a clean install—excellent for homeowners who want fewer components to inspect during priming or purge. The 3-wire path can be useful on deeper wells or where installers prefer above-ground capacitor access. Either way, Myers supports both with clear diagrams, and at PSAM, we stock the matching control boxes and harness kits.
Miguel selected a 2-wire configuration to reduce parts and eliminate an aging control box—one less variable to chase during future air purges.
Diagnostics at a Glance
- 2-wire: Fewer parts to fail; test motor windings from the panel. 3-wire: Replace start/run capacitors above ground if needed.
Cost and Complexity
- 2-wire reduces upfront by the cost of a box and simplifies troubleshooting. 3-wire can shine in special cases with long leads or unique start demands.
Priming/Purge Ease
- Fewer connections mean fewer bad splices. Either configuration purges air the same at the tank tee.
Key takeaway: For priming simplicity and fewer components, Myers’ 2-wire options are hard to beat.
#8. Sizing So Prime Holds – Pump Curve, TDH, and Staging for Real Household Demand
A pump that’s too big or too small creates priming headaches and daily frustrations. Use the pump curve, your TDH (total dynamic head), and real GPM targets to size it right.
Myers provides clear curves: match your static water level, pump setting depth, vertical lift to pressure tank, friction losses, and desired PSI at the house. The sweet spot is operating near BEP where noise drops, efficiency rises, and amperage stays low. Myers Predator Plus offers multiple stages to tailor head: a 1 HP at 10–12 GPM typically covers 150–220 feet with household pressure. That’s where the Navedos landed—about 185 feet pumping level in late summer, demanding roughly 7–9 stages to deliver 50 PSI at the tee.
If you oversize, short cycles spike. If you undersize, the pump strains and runs hot. Both kill prime stability and equipment life.
How to Calculate TDH
- Static level + lift to tank + friction + pressure converted to feet (PSI x 2.31). Add a buffer for seasonal drawdown.
Matching the Curve
- Choose the model where your operating point sits slightly left of BEP. Confirm amperage against spec at that head.
Real GPM Needs
- 8–12 GPM satisfies most households. Irrigation or livestock? Consider 12–20 GPM and a larger tank.
Key takeaway: Get on the right curve and your prime will hold, your pressure will sing, and your motor will nap through decades.
#9. Leak-Proof the Suction and Drop – Check Valve Placement, Pitless Adapter, and Wire Splice Kit Integrity
Air leaks masquerade as priming problems. Lock down the mechanicals: check valve, pitless adapter, wire splice kit, and drop pipe seals.
Position the check valve either as a foot valve or inline near the well bottom for jet systems, and rely on the pump’s internal check (plus a single added top-side check if needed) for submersibles. Too many checks cause chatter; too few bleed back and lose your water column. The pitless adapter must be square and gasketed—cheap O-rings create micro-entrainment of air. And don’t skimp on splices; a heat-shrink wire splice kit seals tight and avoids wicking water. Myers submersibles include cable guards to keep conductors from rubbing the casing while you lower the pump.
For the Navedos, replacing a tired inline check and re-gasketing the pitless was the cure. Prime held beautifully after.
Drop Pipe Discipline
- Use schedule 80 or high-grade poly with proper stainless clamps. Torque arrestors prevent whipping during starts.
Single, Strategic Check
- Submersible: internal check + one top-side if long vertical run. Jet: a foot valve at the source is king.
Seal Everything
- Dope and tape together. Not one or the other. Inspect for white crust (air+water mineral tracks) indicating leaks.
Key takeaway: Mechanical integrity equals prime integrity. Seal it once, enjoy it for years.
#10. Fast, Safe Priming on Jet Pumps – Convertible Jet Pump Setup, Well Seal, and Tank Tee Flow Check
When priming a convertible jet pump, the nozzle/venturi assembly must be fully flooded. Skip this and you’ll hear rattle-cavitation with no pressure gain.
Start by filling through the priming port until water holds level. If it drops, you’ve got leak-back past the check valve. Correct that first. Once you’re confident, crack a faucet, power up, and watch the pressure gauge. Within 30–90 seconds, you should see a steady climb. If it stalls around 10–20 PSI, you’re airbound; stop, refill, restart. The well seal must be tight; a crooked seal will aspirate air even with a good check.
The Navedos’ convertible jet immediately climbed from zero to 42 PSI after we sealed the suction and saturated the venturi pack. Ten minutes later, the system was steady at 50 PSI cut-out.
Gauge Truth
- Trust the gauge on the tank tee. Replace a sticky gauge—it lies during priming. Install a second temporary gauge if you suspect bad readings.
Flow Test
- Open a hose bib fully after prime. Look for steady stream without surging. Surging equals air. Re-prime and recheck suction leaks.
Heat Watch
- Warm housing is normal. Hot-to-touch means stop. You’re cavitating.
Key takeaway: Flood the venturi pack, trust good gauges, and pause if heat spikes. That’s safe priming.
#11. Motor Smarts and Energy Wins – Pentek XE Efficiency, 80%+ Hydraulic Efficiency, and Lower Lifetime Cost
What happens after priming matters just as much. Myers Predator Plus pumps paired with the Pentek XE motor and engineered staging routinely achieve 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP. Lower watts per gallon delivered means less heat, less stress, and longer life.
Efficiency isn’t a marketing slogan—it’s quieter starts, lower utility bills, and happy plumbing. On a 1 HP unit, trimming 10–20% energy draw across 10 years pays for upgrades by itself. And because Myers runs cooler, seals and windings live easier lives. For rural homes like the Navedos, that translates into “install once, enjoy for a decade or two” with seasonal maintenance.
I’ve seen bargain motors pull 12+ amps where a Myers sits at 8. That extra heat shortens everything: insulation, bearings, you name it.
BEP in Practice
- Target operation where the curve is fattest. That’s your efficiency bullseye. Quieter pump = closer to BEP. Your ears won’t lie.
Dollars and Sense
- A 15% savings on a 1 HP, 6-hour/day duty adds up fast. Fewer service calls offset any initial premium.
Heat Is the Enemy
- Cool motors keep insulation class happy. Happy insulation equals long, uneventful service life.
Key takeaway: Efficient pumps prime easily and pay you back every single day they run.
#12. Warranty and Support – Made in USA, 3-Year Warranty, UL/CSA/NSF Confidence, and PSAM Same-Day Shipping
Safety during priming also means safety after. Myers delivers a 3-year warranty, Made in USA quality, and UL/CSA/NSF assurances that your system is built to real standards. At PSAM, we ship same day on in-stock Myers so your emergency doesn’t last a week.
A warranty isn’t paperwork—it’s a manufacturer betting on comparing jet pumps its build. Myers’ three-year coverage outpaces most brands’ 12–18 months, and in my experience, claims are rare when installation follows best practices. PSAM stocks the accessories that make priming safe: tank tees, brass fittings, control box matches for 3-wire units, pressure switches, and check valves that don’t whistle or leak. If you’re replacing a pump Saturday morning, you want hardware, not promises.
When the Navedos swapped their failing setup, everything arrived together—pump, fittings, and manuals. Water was back in hours, not days.
Certification Confidence
- UL listed, CSA certified, NSF touches where they matter. Third-party verification beats glossy brochures.
Real-World Warranty
- 36 months covers manufacturing defects and performance issues. Register and keep install records—smooth sailing if you ever need it.
PSAM Logistics
- Emergency buyers, contractors, and DIYers get the same urgency. We carry the right kits so priming goes right the first time.
Key takeaway: Strong warranty plus real inventory equals low risk and fast recovery.
Comparison Deep-Dive #1: Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion in Priming and Longevity
Technically, Myers’ use of 300 series stainless steel on shells, bowls, and shafts resists corrosion that undermines long-term efficiency. Paired with Teflon-impregnated staging, the impellers handle grit and startup friction gracefully. Many Goulds models rely on cast iron components that do fine initially, but in acidic or iron-laden water, pitting and scale accumulate, opening clearances and degrading head. Red Lion’s reliance on thermoplastic housings in several models reduces weight and cost, but thermoplastics can fatigue under pressure cycling, especially during repeated priming attempts or air-bound runs.
In real-world installs, Myers’ field-serviceable threaded assembly lets contractors refresh stages on-site without full replacement; Goulds service often pushes toward swap-outs once corrosion compromises assemblies. During submersible purges, Myers’ robust intake screen and stainless wear elements keep mixed-phase flow from carving up critical surfaces. Thermoplastic housings can flex or crack when thermal gradients spike—common when purging cold wells into warm basements.
Value-wise, rural homeowners rely on consistent pressure and low downtime. Myers pumps run cooler, hold prime, and keep their curve longer—cutting replacements and service calls. Backed by PSAM’s same-day shipping and the industry-leading 3-year warranty, a Myers system is worth every single penny.
Comparison Deep-Dive #2: Myers vs Franklin Electric for Serviceability and Control Complexity
Performance-wise, Myers Predator Plus paired with the Pentek XE motor delivers high thrust, strong starts, and excellent thermal characteristics with fewer components in 2-wire configurations. Franklin Electric makes solid motors, but many of their submersible packages lean on proprietary control boxes and dealer servicing. Myers’ balanced approach—robust motor design, high-efficiency hydraulics, and versatile 2-wire or 3-wire options—reduces priming-day complexity and long-term service friction.
On the ground, that matters: a 2-wire Myers install means fewer field connections and less to troubleshoot after an air event. In 3-wire environments, Franklin’s proprietary boxes can limit DIY diagnostics and push homeowners into dealer-only paths for capacitor issues or board faults. With Myers, control components are straightforward and widely supported. Add the field-serviceable threaded pump design and on-site repairs become practical.
From a lifetime value standpoint, simplified control plus serviceable hardware equals lower ownership costs. Factor in PSAM’s inventory depth and tech support, and Myers keeps water flowing without the dealer maze. For rural homeowners juggling budgets and uptime, that’s worth every single penny.
#13. Step-by-Step Safe Priming Checklist – Jet and Submersible, Tools, and Final Verification
When the pressure’s down, a clear list calms the room. Here’s my priming playbook.
- Cut power at the breaker. Confirm with a meter. Inspect and tighten all suction fittings. Dope + tape the threads. Verify check valve orientation and seal. Replace if suspect. For jet pumps: Remove priming plug. Flood the volute until it stays full. Reinstall plug. Crack an indoor faucet. Power on. Watch gauge climb. If it stalls, power off and re-prime. For submersibles: Open a hose bib at the tank tee to purge air. Power on. Vent until flow steady. Close bib, confirm cut-out. Set tank precharge to 2 PSI below cut-in with system drained. Confirm pressure switch terminals are clean and tight. Clamp meter check: confirm normal amps at operating pressure. Inspect for leaks. Dry all joints and recheck in 15 minutes.
Miguel taped this checklist inside his well house door. Smart move.
Tool Kit: Rick’s Picks
- Quality clamp meter, 0–100 PSI glycerin gauge, PTFE tape, non-hardening pipe dope. Spare check valve, priming funnel, flashlight, spare pressure switch.
Red Flags—Stop and Diagnose
- Hot pump body, zero pressure rise, or breaker trips. Surging flow after “successful” prime—air still in the system.
Final Sign-Off
- One full drawdown test. Stable refill to cut-out without chatter. Log pressures, amps, and date for future reference.
Key takeaway: Work the list, don’t skip steps, and your Myers system will come to life safely and stay that way.
FAQ: Priming, Performance, and Picking the Right PSAM Myers Pump
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with TDH: static water level + lift to tank + friction losses + desired PSI converted to feet (PSI x 2.31). Then overlay your target flow—most homes thrive at 8–12 GPM. On the Myers curve charts, pick the model whose operating point sits near BEP. A 1/2 HP submersible often handles 60–120 feet at 7–10 GPM. A 3/4 HP pushes comfortably to 150 feet, and a 1 HP can serve 150–220 feet with 10–12 GPM. Larger homes, irrigation, or high fixtures may need 1.5–2 HP or higher staging to maintain 50–60 PSI at the tee. If your well drawdown is significant, add headroom so the pump isn’t stranded at the edge of the curve. My recommendation: call PSAM with your depth, drawdown, and fixture count—five minutes with a curve beats five years of bad sizing.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most families are well-served at 8–12 GPM. Multi-stage impellers add head per stage; stacking stages in a Myers submersible yields the pressure needed to maintain 40/60 PSI systems even with long runs or elevation. For example, a Myers 1 HP Predator Plus at 10 GPM with the right stages handles ~200 feet TDH while staying efficient. If you want 12–15 GPM for irrigation spigots, size up the stages and consider a larger tank to reduce cycling. Multi-stage design keeps the motor in a comfortable amperage band while delivering the pressure you feel as steady showers and fast-filling appliances.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Hydraulic efficiency hinges on smooth flow paths, tight stage tolerances, and low-friction materials. Myers Predator Plus leverages precision-fit bowls, Teflon-impregnated staging, and engineered impeller geometry to trim internal recirculation and turbulence. Add the Pentek XE motor’s electrical efficiency and you’ve got a system that converts watts into water with less loss. Operating near BEP—where the curve is broadest—keeps amps low and noise down. Compared to pumps with cast-iron stages or looser tolerances, Myers stays efficient longer because wear points are better protected. Efficiency saves dollars daily and reduces heat that kills motors.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submersibles live in water chemistry that never sleeps. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion, pitting, and scale adhesion far better than cast iron. That’s critical for long-term stage clearance and shaft alignment; loosen either and efficiency collapses. In acidic or iron-heavy wells, cast iron develops pits that scratch flow and increase drag. Stainless components—shells, bowls, shafts—maintain their surfaces, so your pump curve doesn’t fall off a cliff after a few seasons. Stainless also tolerates the thermal gradients of purge events without micro-cracking. It’s the difference between a 4–6-year compromise and an 8–15-year performer with 20+ possible.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
During priming, purge, or seasonal turbidity, trace grit sneaks through. Self-lubricating composite impellers reduce friction and heat during those dry-to-wet seconds. Teflon impregnation drops the coefficient of friction so vanes don’t abrade as quickly and bushings don’t gall. That keeps stage clearances tight and prevents internal leakage paths that steal head pressure. Over a decade, this is the difference between a pump that still hits 10 GPM at 50 PSI and one that wheezes at 6–7 GPM. It’s smart insurance engineered into every run cycle.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor delivers robust starting torque with optimized winding design, better thermal handling, and integrated thermal overload protection. Combined, you get quick, clean starts and lower operating current at the same head and GPM. High thrust bearings handle axial load from multi-stage impellers without premature wear, so efficiency stays up. In my meter checks, XE motors routinely draw 10–20% less current than commodity counterparts running similar heads—quiet motors, lower heat, longer life. Add lightning protection and you’ve got a motor that survives rural realities.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
A capable DIYer can install a submersible safely with the right tools, but there’s no shame in calling a pro. What matters most: correct wire gauge, waterproof wire splice kits, proper drop pipe, torque arrestor, pitless adapter sealing, and matching pump to the curve. Many homeowners handle replacements in 150–200-foot Plumbing Supply and More myers pump wells with a helper and a lifting plan. If your well is 250+ feet, or you’re unsure on electrical, hire a licensed contractor. PSAM can supply pump, kit, fittings, control boxes (if 3-wire), and phone guidance. Bottom line: safety first—pumps are heavy, wells are deep, and mistakes are costly.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire pump houses start components within the motor—no external control box. Fewer parts, simpler wiring, faster troubleshooting. A 3-wire pump uses an external control box with start and run capacitors above ground—handy for quick capacitor swaps and certain deep-well starts. Performance can be identical if sized right; your choice often comes down to service preference. For priming and purging simplicity, 2-wire keeps variables down. For contractor fleets or deep installations, 3-wire’s above-ground components can be convenient. Myers supports both with clean documentation.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing, clean electrical, and routine checks, expect 8–15 years. I’ve seen well-cared-for Myers pumps roll past 20. Key practices: keep voltage within spec, use the correct wire gauge to minimize drop, maintain tank precharge, inspect check valves, and purge air after service. Avoid chronic short cycling—use appropriate tank volume and switch settings. If you hear new noise or see rising amperage for the same pressure, investigate before damage compounds. Myers’ materials and motor protection make long life achievable.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Twice a year: verify pressure switch operation, inspect terminals, and confirm tank precharge relative to cut-in. Annually: test static water level if possible, check for leaks at the tank tee, replace a sticky gauge, and listen for changes in pump sound. After any plumbing changes: purge air thoroughly. Every 3–5 years: evaluate check valves and replace if seep detected. Log amperage vs pressure once; that baseline tells you if performance drifts later. These small steps keep your Myers humming and priming a rare event.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty exceeds many competitors’ 12–18 months, covering manufacturing defects and performance issues. In practice, if a properly installed pump exhibits early failure unrelated to installation errors (like dry-run damage, bad wiring, or waterlogged tanks causing rapid cycling), Myers takes care of it. Pair that with UL/CSA/NSF certifications and Made in USA manufacturing and you’ve got confidence baked in. Keep your receipt, record install details, and register when possible—documentation smooths the path if you ever need support.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps can look tempting—until year three. Replacing a bargain unit every 3–5 years, plus higher energy draw and frequent service calls, often doubles or triples the 10-year cost. Myers’ higher hydraulic efficiency trims your utility bill 10–20%. The Pentek XE motor reduces heat-related failures. 300 series stainless and Teflon-impregnated staging keep the curve strong for a decade or more. Add the 3-year warranty and PSAM’s fast parts availability, and the math is simple: fewer replacements, fewer emergencies, lower bills—Myers wins the decade.
Final Word from Rick
Priming is a moment of truth. Do it safely—no dry-run gambles, no leaky fittings, no mismatched tank settings—and your Myers system will repay you with quiet, steady pressure for years. The Predator Plus Series, with stainless construction, self-lubricating staging, and the Pentek XE motor, is engineered for the realities I see on every rural job: grit today, a thunderstorm tomorrow, and long, thirsty summers in between. PSAM stocks what you need, ships when you need it, and stands behind you when the water stops. Choose a Myers pump, prime it right, and enjoy the calm. It’s worth every single penny.